Ratna writes

This is the story of how Udai and I accidentally ended up scaling Sunset Peak in Lantau Island, ranked one of the top three hardest hikes in Hong Kong.  With an inflated feeling of accomplishment after last week's hike , I was all too willing to believe my husband when he said "I remember Sunset Peak being even easier than MacLehose Section 2..." (If you intend to use your quad muscles again after this trek, I strongly suggest considering MacLehose over this peak.) But I took him at his word and we arrived at the Tung Chung MTR Station Sunday morning, which we quickly realized is ludicrously busy because it connects to the Big Buddha. After spending 2 hours in the process of discovering that cab drivers waved us away rather than go to Pak Kung Au (the starting point for our hike), we almost turned back to go home when we saw the lines for the buses that go there. But we figured out that since bus 11A doesn't go to the Big Buddha, it's the most efficient route to...

We set off for Sai Kung this Sunday to check out Section 2 of the formidable MacLehose Trail , a 100-km network of stunning scenery. We chose our section because it's a 13-kilometer stretch that is relatively flat (though there are two major uphill sections that last 10-15 minutes). This was our route: From Sai Kung, we got dropped off at Sai Wan Pavilion , a good landmark to use for the start of Section 2! Although there's no signage for a good 20 minutes after this point, if you can follow other hikers or use GMaps to get started, you're soon rewarded with this view. About 15 minutes later, you'll come upon a map of the whole MacLehose Trail that'll give you a good idea of where to go! The first major built landmark we came across was Sai Wan Village, which has a tourist information center, a couple of spots where you can grab a Pocari or something to eat, and a public toilet. Beyond the small booths was Sai Wan Beach, sprawling and scenic though slightly better s...

So much of taking in this unassuming city is letting yourself stop and notice things in the in-between. Kyoto does not seem to seek to wow and amaze; it is simply being, and you are invited to join. The city is often sleepy; nights in downtown tend to wrap up by 9pm, but this introverted older sibling of Tokyo is a joy to discover, slowly. Rather than a checklist of things to tick off, let this serve as a general guide of areas to be in, and allow the place to befall you. You could use this guide and have a completely different experience from us, because there is hidden history in every corner, and you could visit the same neighborhood and discover completely different shrines and gardens from the ones that we saw.   Grounds of Ginkaku-ji That said, this is what Udai and I would do for two full but not-too-full days in Kyoto. Day 1 Ginkaku-jicho shrine Walk down Philosopher’s Path Lunch at Cafe Ren Ginkakuji Dinner at Vegan Ramen UZU Day 2 Tenryu-ji temple Wander Arashiyama for l...

5pm: We arrived early Friday evening at the  Hotel Mets Shibuya , which happens to be inside of Shibuya Station! Shibuya is the most “bustly” part of one of the most bustling cities in the world, and on our way out, we wanted to be in the center of the action. But staying inside the station itself was another level altogether, the lobby of our hotel just yards away from the ticket entrance to the Narita (Airport) express. We actually recommend this place if you're pressed for time in Toyko, not fussed about how your room looks, and want to pop out to the center of Shibuya multiple times, while being on a street that's tucked away, near a convenience store, and not that chaotic. 7pm: At night, we launched into Shibuya Scramble Crossing, thus known because the intersection is so long and so crowded that one actually has to line up on the side of the street she's on, queuing for a chance to make it to the other side within the time of just one traffic light! I found this extr...

 We were up bright and early this morning to catch a ride to  Arashiyama , an area on the outskirts of Kyoto known for a bamboo forest and some super scenic shrines. We first visited the  Tenryu-ji  temple, the landscaping of whose lake hasn't changed since the 1400s. We sat soaking in the serene surroundings until we had worked up an appetite (for coffee) and headed off to find the fabled original % Arabica shop. We walked along the beautiful Katsura River to get there, but found the line laughably long and ended up sitting on the wall along the river and eating jell-o from 7-Eleven.  We spent some time ambling through the adorable town of Arashiyama before heading back to the canal for lunch. On a roll, we decided to pay a visit to  Fushimi Inari Taisha , a mountainside shrine famous for featuring 10,000 bright orange torii gates in the side of the mountain! The route features a number of resting points with shrines on the way, including Shin-ike Pond,...

Today, Priya, Mama, and I ventured to the stunning  Douro Valley , one of the protected designation of origins of wine, famous for port in particular. Despite the rain coming down for most of the day, views from the ride were too breathtaking to capture in single photographs, but here's one of Vila Real, a town on the water that we passed on the way. The journey took about an hour and a half by bus, through verdant undulating hills cut with terraces for the viticulture for which the region is famous. Our first stop was the Régua train station, whence departs the fabled " Train to Nowhere " that meanders through the Douro valley with no particular destination.  Our carriage for the day, however, was decisive about its designated destinations. The first winery we visited was Quinta da Roêda, the farmstead on which the company Croft has its holdings. We learned that the word  quinta ("one-fifth")   is used to refer to a farm in Portugal because one-fifth of the pro...

We started our Thursday with a drive through historic Porto and parked at the  National Soares dos Reis Museum , founded in 1833 to expose Portuguese students to the fine arts. With its well curated Portuguese paintings and sculpture and the gorgeous blue-and-white tiled walls, it was a dream come true (particularly given Mama's aesthetic preferences). We passed the hottest hours of the day there taking in Soares dos Reis and his contemporaries, through gallery after breathtaking gallery. We highly recommend their small and thoughtful collection! When the hottest hours of the day had passed, we popped into Livraria Lello , known for being "the most beautiful bookstore in the world." After a visit, we can confidently confirm that we agree with this assessment. A stained glass ceiling and window coverings suspend over a red staircase that looks like melting lava, like something out of Harry Potter. After the first tawny port of the day, we ventured out to the stunning teal ...